Inside the creams

A label can list twenty ingredients, but a few do most of the work you can see and feel. We read through the ingredient lists of our Dermagenix formulas and picked the five with the most interesting science behind them. For each one: what it is, what the studies found and where to find it.

1. Niacinamide (vitamin B3): the all-rounder

What it is: a form of vitamin B3 and one of the most-studied ingredients in skincare.

What the research found: in a 12-week, double-blind, split-face study, 50 women applied 5% niacinamide to one side of the face and a plain base cream to the other. The niacinamide side showed reductions in the look of fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, red blotchiness and sallowness, and measured elasticity improved.¹ In a separate study, niacinamide moisturizers significantly reduced the look of uneven pigmentation and brightened skin tone after four weeks compared with a plain moisturizer.²

Why we like it: it is gentle, works well with other ingredients and helps several signs at once: tone, texture and the look of fine lines.

Find it in: GA-10 Facial Peel, Intensive Recovery Eye Cream and Revitalizer Anti-Aging Silk Cream, all by Dermagenix.

2. Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu): the copper peptide

What it is: GHK is a small peptide made of three amino acids that occurs naturally in the human body;³ bound to copper, it is known as GHK-Cu. On ingredient labels it appears as copper tripeptide-1.

What the research found: a review by GHK researchers summarizes laboratory findings that GHK supports the function of dermal fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen and elastin, and is involved in pathways related to skin renewal.³ Most of this evidence comes from laboratory studies, so we present it as promising science rather than a promise.

Why we like it: it is one of the best-known cosmetic peptides, and it adds a different kind of peptide to our formulas.

Find it in: GA-10 Facial Peel and Intensive Recovery Eye Cream, alongside tripeptide-1 and tripeptide-29.

3. Hyaluronic acid: hydration you can see

What it is: a sugar molecule that skin makes naturally, prized for its ability to bind water.⁴

What the research found: in a 60-day study of 76 women, creams with 0.1% hyaluronic acid applied around the eyes significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity compared with a plain cream. The lower-molecular-weight versions also significantly reduced measured wrinkle depth.⁴

Why we like it: well-hydrated skin looks plumper, smoother and more radiant right away, and it is comfortable for every skin type.

Find it in: Intensive Recovery Eye Cream and Revitalizer Anti-Aging Silk Cream, both by Dermagenix.

4. Ceramides: comfort for dry skin

What it is: lipids that are a natural part of the skin's outer barrier, the layer that keeps moisture in.

What the research found: in a study of a moisturizer formulated with ceramides and other skin-identical ingredients, a single application significantly increased skin hydration for 24 hours and reduced water loss from the skin, more than three reference moisturizers at the 24-hour mark.⁵

Why we like it: dry, mature skin often feels tight because water escapes too easily. Ceramides help skin feel soft, supple and comfortable for longer.

Find it in: Intensive Recovery Eye Cream by Dermagenix, with hyaluronic acid and avocado extract.

5. Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5): the quiet helper

What it is: a pro-vitamin that skin converts to vitamin B5, used widely in moisturizers.

What the research found: in a 30-day study, formulas with 1% or 5% panthenol significantly reduced water loss from the skin, and 1% panthenol helped skin recover faster after washing with a harsh cleanser.⁶

Why we like it: it is the ingredient that makes a formula feel soothing and keeps skin comfortable, especially after exfoliation.

Find it in: GA-10 Facial Peel and Intensive Recovery Eye Cream.

A word on plant stem cell extracts

Several of our formulas feature plant stem cell extracts: apple stem cell extract appears in GA-10 Facial Peel, Intensive Recovery Eye Cream and Revitalizer Anti-Aging Silk Cream. These are extracts grown from plant cell cultures and valued for their antioxidants. A review from Rutgers University researchers notes that this is a fast-growing area of cosmetic science, and that more research is needed to show meaningful changes in human skin.⁷ We love them as part of a well-rounded formula, and we will keep you posted as the science develops.

What to expect

• Right away: skin feels more hydrated, smoother and more comfortable, thanks to hyaluronic acid, ceramides and panthenol.
• Weeks 4 to 12: in the studies above, changes in the look of tone, dark spots and fine lines were measured after 4 to 12 weeks of twice-daily use.^1,2
• Every day: results last as long as the habit does. Finish your morning routine with sunscreen.

Build your routine

1. Prep: pH Balance Toner, morning and evening.
2. Renew: GA-10 Facial Peel, once a week.
3. Eye care: Intensive Recovery Eye Cream, morning and evening.
4. Moisturize: Revitalizer Anti-Aging Silk Cream on the face and neck.

Not sure where to start? Visit us in Park City or Sun Valley for a personal consultation.

This article is for general information only. These products are cosmetics intended to improve the appearance of skin. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. The studies cited tested individual ingredients in their own formulas, not our products, and individual results vary. Patch test before first use and stop use if irritation occurs.